Week 1- The Headwaters
"Didn't anyone tell you that canoeing is dead?!"
Surprisingly no. No one had mentioned this particular fact to us. Even more surprising then hearing this new piece of "information" was that it was delivered by the owner of a midwestern canoe and kayak outfitter. This would not be the last remarkable, entertaining conversation we would have during this trip.
Now we're on the river. What we now know to be the river could, at first, easily be confused for a small stream. As we packed the canoe for the first time, we were standing just over ankle deep in a stream that could be straddled at some points. As Lake Itasca empties to create the the Mississippi River, what you find is a remarkably clear stream. Colorful stones and tall Pine trees decorate the shore. The water is crisp and has a surprising amount of movement for such a small beginning.
After awkwardly finishg to pack the canoe, working mostly off of excitement and pure energy, we departed. A first few casual miles, some well wishes from strangers, we were off and alone. Then the twinges of reality begun to settle upon us. We were no longer talking to one another across the ocean. No longer planning, purchasing or researching. We were finally doing. Our paddles were in the water. We had the maps ready in hand. It was time to start.
As is with any great undertaking, the beginning was awkward at best. Nervously double, then triple checking maps for landmarks to we didn't miss stopping points. Planning out water usage so we wouldn't run out and look like complete amateurs. But slowly and steadily, we found our feet. We got the hang of the maps. Builing up endurance with our paddling. As odd as it was, we were actually figuring thigs out.
We hit sections of rapids, took some heavy jostling in the canoe. Dodged down trees and half submerged logs. The beauty of the headwaters is remarkable. Long, scenic views over marshlands, which are often encircled by stands of trees. This is also an area of discouragement. We would paddle for great lengths, it seemed, only to have a stand of trees appear no closer. The winding switchbacks always seemed to have just one or two more turns before it finally yielded signs of progress. This was not going to be easy, we were learning.
Sections of the Mississippi also make it way through several lakes, Bemidji, Cass and Winnibegoshish.
Here we would learn the quickness at which weather could shift. A beautiful paddle up the eastern side of Bemidji one night would turn into prestorm winds and send 2-3 rolling waves across the lake early the next morning. Cass lake was a wide open stretch where we had to become comfortable with big water. Keep it steady and watch for boats, this became our mantra. Lake Winnibegoshish, or Winni, would show us how she earned her reputation after we carefully planned our route, checked the weatehr and took the safest route- we were 2 miles from reaching the section of shore we were heading towards and a storm sprung up and started up even more waves and heavy rain. These were all lessons. You could plan and prepare, but sometimes all the best laid plans get thrown out of the window and the only think you can do is simply react.
One of the more notable reports there are to offer about the headwaters would be the distinct lack of human beings. It is fantastic. No one around for miles and miles. At times, we would see about sixteen deer per one human being. River otters, beavers, bald eagles, schools of fish and a varietes of birds, we were always quietly whispering to one another to take a look at another remarkable sight or animal, as not to risk disturbing it, and likely scaring it away.
This was a great introduction to what we would be doing for the summer. While we certainly have things to improve and learn, our excitement does honestly grow with each passing day. This river is certainly diverse. It always seems to have a shifting attitude and personality. We are learning, and excited to keep learning.
For now, we're just going to keep paddling and take all of this one day at a time.
Apologies for the late blog posts, internet has been quite a scarce resource along the river. We are making every attempt to get back on track with posting and updating.